Quick Take

You can't tell the story of Chez Panisse, Berkeley's famed restaurant, without relating that of its diminutive founder, proprietor, and sometime chef, Alice Waters. This is what Thomas McNamee does most handily in his Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, a chronicle that begins with the seat-of-the-pants opening night of the "counterculture" venture in 1971, and ends 35 years later with Waters's restaurant an American institution--one credited with birthing California Cuisine, a style devoted to simplicity, freshness and seasonality. The book also limns, with tasty gossip, the ever-evolving Chez Panisse family, including the cook-artisans uniquely responsible for dish creation; follows the attempts, mostly failed, to put the restaurant on sound financial footing; shows how dishes and menus get made; and of course pursues Waters as she broadens her commitment to "virtuous agriculture" by establishing ventures like The Edible Schoolyard and The Yale Sustainable Food Project. The success of Chez Panisse--Gourmet magazine named it the best American restaurant in 2002--has everything to do with Waters, yet she remains an elusive protagonist. Sophisticated yet naive, professional and amateur, hard-driving but emotionally blurry, she invites reader interest but doesn't always satisfy it, as least as presented here. If McNamee cannot quite bring her to life, and if his tale lacks an insider's full conversance with his subject, he still engages readers in the considerable drama of people finding their way--blunderingly, with talented intent--to something new. With menus, narrated recipes, and photographs throughout, the book is vital reading for anyone interested in food, period. --Arthur Boehm

Reader's Review

Book Review Summary: Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brilliant Making of a Food Revolution

Introduction

"Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brilliant Making of a Food Revolution" by Thomas McNamee is a captivating biography that delves into the life and legacy of Alice Waters, the founder of Chez Panisse, a famed restaurant in Berkeley, California. The book chronicles the journey of Waters and her restaurant from their humble beginnings in 1971 to their status as an American institution. It explores the birth of California Cuisine, a culinary style that emphasizes simplicity, freshness, and seasonality. Through this narrative, McNamee sheds light on the ever-evolving Chez Panisse family, including the cook-artisans responsible for creating dishes and menus.

About Thomas McNamee

Thomas McNamee is an accomplished author known for his engaging and insightful writing style. In "Alice Waters and Chez Panisse," he delves into the life of Alice Waters and her impact on the food industry. McNamee brings a fresh perspective to the story, capturing the drama and passion behind the creation of Chez Panisse. With his extensive research and storytelling prowess, he offers readers a comprehensive understanding of the restaurant's history and the woman behind it.

Analysis of Views

The Influence of Alice Waters: Readers are in awe of Alice Waters's vision and determination in creating Chez Panisse. They appreciate her commitment to using fresh, local ingredients and promoting sustainable agriculture. Waters's passion for good food and her ability to frame eating within a political context resonate with many readers.
The Romanticism of Chez Panisse: The book evokes a sense of romance and nostalgia for readers who have visited Chez Panisse. They appreciate the restaurant's unique atmosphere and the way it has contributed to American dining culture. The descriptions of the dishes and menus spark curiosity and create a desire to experience the restaurant firsthand.
The Journey of Chez Panisse: Readers find the book engaging because it offers a behind-the-scenes look at the challenges faced by Alice Waters and her team in establishing Chez Panisse. They appreciate the author's ability to convey the complexity of running a restaurant while maintaining its core values. The book provides insights into the evolution of Chez Panisse and how it has adapted to changing times.
The Slow Food Movement: The book highlights Alice Waters's role in promoting the slow food movement, which emphasizes local, organic, and seasonal ingredients. Readers appreciate her advocacy for sustainable farming practices and her influence on American cuisine. They see Chez Panisse as a symbol of this movement and appreciate its commitment to quality and authenticity.
The Artistry of Cooking: Many readers find inspiration in Alice Waters's approach to cooking and her belief in the artistry of food. They appreciate her emphasis on simplicity, freshness, and the importance of cooking with love. The book showcases Waters's passion for creating memorable dining experiences and her dedication to preserving culinary traditions.

Reasons for Recommendation

Engaging Storytelling: Thomas McNamee's writing style captivates readers from start to finish. His ability to weave together personal anecdotes, historical context, and culinary insights creates a compelling narrative that keeps readers engaged throughout the book.
Insight into Food Culture: "Alice Waters and Chez Panisse" offers readers a deep understanding of the food culture that has emerged in America over the past few decades. It provides insights into the evolution of California Cuisine and highlights the impact of Chez Panisse on American dining.
Inspirational Message: The book inspires readers with Alice Waters's vision and determination in pursuing her passion for good food. Her commitment to sustainable agriculture and her influence on American cuisine serve as a source of inspiration for those interested in food, cooking, and social change.

Reasons for Not Recommendation

Lack of Personal Connection: Some readers find that they cannot fully connect with Alice Waters as a character. They feel that McNamee's portrayal falls short of fully capturing her essence, leaving them with a sense of detachment from the story.
Slightly Snobby Tone: A few readers perceive the book as having a slightly snobby tone, which detracts from their enjoyment of the narrative. They feel that some aspects of the book come across as elitist or exclusive, which may not resonate with all readers.

Conclusion

"Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brilliant Making of a Food Revolution" by Thomas McNamee is a compelling biography that offers readers an insightful look into the life and legacy of Alice Waters and her famed restaurant, Chez Panisse. Through engaging storytelling, readers are captivated by the romanticism of Chez Panisse and inspired by Alice Waters's vision for food culture in America. While some readers may find certain aspects of the book lacking personal connection or feel that it has a snobby tone, overall, "Alice Waters and Chez Panisse" is recommended for those interested in food, cooking, sustainability, and social change.